Kubota Ea300 Engine Parts Manual
Workshop manual includes detailed repair and maintenance information, schematics and diagrams, installation instructions that will help to quickly and easily eliminate faults and problems of diesel engines Kubota. This workshop manual allows you to find the necessary workshop information. This manual comes in PDF format, you can print out individual pages or the entire text as a whole.
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Our managers proceed your order the same day. Related products for Kubota EA300, EA400 Series Diesel Engine Workshop Manual PDF 9Y011-02612. Repair Manual Engine Kubota dealer documentation is a directory, which contains guidance on repair and maintenance, provides a complete description of the diagnosis, including moments of delays, the process of assembly and disassembly of the engine and other units and units, all electrical devices and control units, the necessary special tool as well as other information.
The electronic Kubota Engines Repair Manual contains technical information on these engine models, Kubota - 03-M-E2B, 03-M-E3B SERIES, 03-M-DI-E3B SERIES, 03-M-E3BG SERIES, V3300-E2B, V3300- T-E2B, V3-E3B SERIES, V3-E3CB SERIES, V3-E3BG SERIES, 03-M-E3B Series, 03-M-DI-E3B Series, 03-M-E3BG Series. 150$ 1/2011.
Engine Parts Warehouse
I just purchased a brand new Kubota Diesel Engine, Model EA300-ENB1 with shop service and parts manual, 1-7/16 stub shaft and lots of oil and air filters. It is rated for 6 hp cont.
It looks like a cool engine and I will post pictures. It is like a mini S195 and I just had to have it. I will be picking it up tonight and I will take pictures tomorrow. The thing has counter ballance shafts and the gear train has helical cut gears. I heard it run 2 weeks ago and it is a nice quiet running engine.
Parts Engine Bearings
It has large ball bearing on the mains so there is no concern for side loads. The engine is electric start or hand crank. Does anyone else have one of these engines?
Henry « Last Edit: January 09, 2010, 12:25:21 PM by hwew » Logged. Henry They are great little motors. I should bought 3 EB300s when I had the chance!!!
That is my little 'Putt-Putt' I posted about. Send me a PM and I can send you the SketchUp stuff I have done up for it. I actually have an EB 300D, but its pretty close. Sweet little things.
The are like little gems, so thoroughly detailed and finely made. Mine is in service anytime it's gets cloudy for too long. They have the TVCS combustion system. Kind of a cross between DI and IDI. Real efficient.
I'm sure it would run great on Bio-diesel, but I just don't go though enough fuel to buy much since Bio is kinda shelf life limited. I just purchased a brand new Kubota Diesel Engine, Model EA300-ENB1 with shop service and parts manual, 1-7/16 stub shaft and lots of oil and air filters. It is rated for 6 hp cont.
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It looks like a cool engine and I will post pictures. Does anyone else have one of these engines? Henry Hey Henry, Yep I have one of these, but it has the smaller injector and head which limits it to 4.5 HP but also consumes less fuel. Mine is the 300E used on road construction warning lights and such.
I've had mine for nearly 10 years now. At one point I had both a AC gen head and a large frame LN alternator.
At that time I only had a 1Kwatt inverter and needed the AC to drive tools n such. Since then I have upgraded my inverter and the gen head went south.
Hopefully I can get another gen head or my old one fixed someday, but things are working now with the inverter. I've never ran it on veggie oil but I see no reason to suspect it would have an issue with it. I have re-filtered my old used lube oil and mixed it with fuel on a 10:1 ratio without a hitch, but I only do that in the summer. My original manual says it's ok to use bunker fuel and the mix is still less viscous than bunker. I also have an inline fuel filter and a sediment bowl. I have a remote hardwired control system I built for it where I can engage the glow plug (when it's cold out) start it, throttle it up after warming up and then engage the alternator charging. I use a set of relays to do this from the house where I have a set of switches and some little LED's to tell me where the throttle position is.
I use a small geared DC motor to change the throttle via a cable and spring. I just built an H bridge for the little DC motor with relays. Little switches are tripped when the throttle hits set points that let me know where the throttle position is via the LED's in the house. The engine room is about 50 feet away. I'd just like to be able to read the temp and oil pressure from the house, but I can't figure out how to do that. I can tell by the sound if it's running right or not. I've often thought of a different radiator to keep it cooler in the summer, but it rarely runs over 180째 F.
I did away with the factory fuel tank and use a 5 GAL 'jerry' can. Burning about a pint an hour that gives me a potential run time of about 40 hours. I have never ran it more than overnight in the summer to drive the air conditioner, but this keeps me from having to keep pouring fuel in a little tank. My lube filter is an internal screen integrated with the drain plug. Is yours like that?
I replaced the air cleaner with a home made deal to accept a carbed chevy round type. Cheaper and works just as good as the factory job, which I thought was too small and restricted air flow. Besides, nobody around here carries any parts for it. I use a company in FLorida, SE Power Products.
Those guys are great and sent me a new injector (which I didn't need) without charging me up front. I sent it back when I figured out it just needed cleaning, and carb cleaner fixed that issue. Enjoy the engine, I sure do. I gave $1475 for mine in '99. Do you mind sharing how much you gave for yours? Nothing meant by me against the Changfas at all.
I'm just a cheap bastard. I got my eb300 for 450 bux and Henry for 700 i believe. Think Roger has scored a couple for very reasonable too. Not many sources for Changfas except on the other coast and shipping is a pig! I only like t he changfas, they seem to be the to be level for Chinese singles.
I think George and Joel used ot sell Changfas out west, IIRC, no mas. I place a lot of trust in George's evaluation, seems like he has been there and learned from the school of hard knocks. Walked a way from a couple Jiang Dongs (or some such). Their fit and finish just turned me off.
Yes, nothing against Changfas, (don't wanna get in a belly bumpin contest wit anyone). If I had found one for the right price and shipping. BANG, that would be it!!
Just because of good luck, I have what I have. Damn sure wouldn't spend 24 to 26 hundred either. Like I said, I'm cheap!! Cheers mike Logged.
You can buy 3 Changfa S195's for that price! Veggie Yes you can buy 3 S195's and I love them. I would not pay 24 or 26 hundred for an EA300.
But when I found out I can get a new EA300 for $700.00 I was out the door to pick it up. And when I got there I did not ask any questions and gladly gave him the cash, loaded it up and got out of there before he changed his mind. I would not pay over 2 grand for one of the small Perkins or Cat engines. But those went for $599.00 and $699.00 at surplus center and I can justify the cost what they sold for. Henry « Last Edit: January 11, 2010, 06:25:51 AM by hwew » Logged.
Nothing meant by me against the Changfas at all. I'm just a cheap bastard. I got my eb300 for 450 bux and Henry for 700 i believe. Think Roger has scored a couple for very reasonable too. Yep, I found a source for these engines near Ft. Lenardwood MO that come off tank recovery trucks. They (US Army) use these engines to power the hydro for ramps n such on lowboy trailers.
I'll try to find the info about the guy I bought mine and post it. I told a little fib in my previous post, but my memory ain't what it used to be. My current engine is part of my first engine and part of a recycled one. My first engine went south due to a bad ring job I hired out. The rebuilders over torqued the head bolts, an oil leak happened and it ruined the crank at the rod throw.
These used engines were going for $500 but I bought one that had no head, starter, intake, radiator, flywheel and a few other parts for far less ($350 I think). I cobbled together both engines for the one running now. This was cheaper than buying the new parts and shipping. Sorry about that, I just forgot about a bad memory there. My wife, the smart one, reminded me about that this morning before she left for work.