In a Nutshell This article discusses how to install car audio gear on your Electra Glide. Check it out and then use our to find audio gear that will fit your motorcycle. Replacing the old radio isn't hard to do on these Harleys. You have lots of options, but we'd suggest a digital media receiver that will work with your phone and other devices. Replacing the fairing and rear is also pretty simple, and you have a nice variety of speakers to choose from. We do suggest having a helper handy when you're removing the fairing. You can also expand your system with custom amp and speaker packages designed for your Harley.
Full Story Overview of the Electra Glide A touring motorcycle like the Harley-Davidson Electra Glide is made for riders who enjoy taking long trips on nice days in maximum comfort. With a suspension tuned for the open road, seats designed for long stints, and a fairing that keeps the wind at bay while putting everything within reach, this big bike is a worthy heir to Harley's touring tradition. Touring bike riders know what they like, and Harley-Davidson excels at giving them exactly that.
Audio systems are important to today's customers, so the various Electra Glide trim levels (Standard, Classic, or Ultra Classic) can be had with some very nice factory stereo gear. But if you're really serious about enjoying music while you're enjoying a long trip, upgrading the stereo is a must. We have the gear you want, plus we have the expert advice you need to install it properly. Most of these notes also apply to the Street Glide and Ultra, by the way. The factory radio can be replaced by a variety of aftermarket models. We recommend a digital media receiver. (Crutchfield Research Photo) Factory stereo system In addition to a base model with two speakers in the fairing, the Electra Glide was also available with a 'Touring' package that included rear speaker pods.
Replacing the gear isn't especially difficult for an experienced DIY-er, but if you're new to motorcycle repair or just not totally comfortable doing the work, you might want to consult a car audio shop in your area. Here's a close-up look at the fairing speakers (Crutchfield Research Photo) Fairing speakers As long as the fairing face is off the bike and stored safely, you might as well replace the stock 5-1/4' speakers. You'll hear some improvement in your sound with just a new receiver, but if you really want to get the most out of your music, new speakers are a necessity.
Add in the 'While you're up' factor, and doing it now will look like an even better idea. A healthy number of 5-1/4' aftermarket speakers will fit this bike, plus there are some 6-3/4' models that can be bottom-mounted to the fairing with the help of brackets that are available with your speaker purchase. You'll want to use the factory speaker grilles with either size, so be careful when you’re removing them. When you're choosing your new speakers, remember that replacing the 1- or 2-ohm factory speaker with a higher-impedance aftermarket speaker will result in lower volume levels. Look for lower-impedance replacements. Tools needed: Torx-T25 driver, Phillips screwdriver.
You can replace the 'Touring' rear speakers with aftermarket 5-1/4' models (Crutchfield Research Photo) Rear speakers The 'Touring' package includes rear speaker pods mounted on either side of the second seat. The stock speakers are 5-1/4' models, and there are plenty of aftermarket options, including marine-rated speakers that stand up to the elements. These speakers are also quite easy to remove and replace. All you need to do is remove four Phillips screws securing the speaker and the grille to the speaker pod, then disconnect the wiring and remove the speaker and grille. You'll use the aftermarket grille that comes with your new speakers. And again, remember that replacing the 1- or 2-ohm factory speaker with a higher-impedance aftermarket speaker will result in lower volume levels. Tools needed: Phillips screwdriver.
The Kicker Klock Werks FHDESU96 kit is made for your Harley-Davidson Other options for your Electra Glide Here are some other great ideas for your Harley-Davidson: Amps and speaker packages If you're looking for a one-shot speaker solution, we offer speaker packages from Rockford Fosgate, Biketronics, and Klock Werks Powered by Kicker. To learn more, to see what fits. If you prefer to go 'a la carte' with your audio system, a compact, weatherproof will make your speakers sound their best. Camera A is an awesome accessory for touring, and it can also be a handy thing to have on your bike when you're cruising around town. Security Installing a new security system on your Electra Glide isn't easy (security systems rarely are), but it's definitely a good idea. Our Crutchfield Advisors can help figure out what you need to get the job done, but we usually recommend taking your car and new gear to a professional installer.
Hi, Alan it should be noted that the reasons your check engine light stays on constantly or flashes and your bike will or will not start and may turn over or not, these conditions will vary from bike to bike depending on the year, make, and model and you should always refer to your owners/service manual for proper diagnostic procedures. It should also be noted that any type of prior work done to the bike or an abnormal event occurrence IE: adding accessories, electrical curiosity/adventures, laying bike down/crashes, rainstorms/bike washings just before EFI light issues started can be significant hints/aids into tracking down the gremlin, also carry the appropriate jumper wire to access fault codes to reduce the risk of being stranded or towed, that being said the usual suspects are: 1. Faulty Fuel Pump, fuse or system relay switch. Battery starting to fail due to old age/damage, perform a load test. Discharged battery, check battery terminals for damage or corrosion, check the battery cables at 'BOTH' ends for loose, corroded, or broken connectors, 'INSIDE' and outside the cable harness, perform connector wiggle test and check cables with an ohmmeter if necessary. Faulty switches/sensors: run/off, ignition, clutch lever, neutral, side stand, tip over, fuel, and or their connections. Broken wire or worn insulation exposing wire to a ground situation especially inside wire harness at tight bends around fairing brackets, under dash panels, under fuel tanks over cylinder heads etc.
Many harnesses are open on the ends that will allow water to enter and accumulate at v-bends. Check for generated fault codes. Dielectric grease and contact cleaner are your best friends for wire/cable/harness connectors, look for corroded, broken, or loose pins/sockets. For more information about your issue please click on the links below and for specific answers or questions at no charge please contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a nice day. 80 Answers SOURCE: Drain the fuel either by siphening or removing the cross over tube at the front of the tank and letting it drain that way or just block off those cross over lines and leave the fule in the tank for removal. 0) remove seat 1) drain fuel 2) undo cross over line (bottom front of gas tank.
3) shut off pet. and remove fuel line from pet. 4)there should only be 2 bolts holding the tank on, one at the top front of the tank and one at the back of the tank. All in all a pretty easy (but possibloy messy) job. Posted on Jun 06, 2009. Hi, Craig for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere zero $0 you can download another one.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day. To speak to me personally absolutely free Apr 10, 2018. Hi, Anonymous before testing any electrical component in the Reverse Circuit it is 'IMPERATIVE' that you have a fully charged battery of 12.5 volts or more and be able to pass a proper 'LOAD' test if necessary, you may have a preliminary reading of 12.5 volts or more but little or zero amperage, the battery is faulty and must be replaced.
AGM type batteries fall into this scenario more so than lead-acid batteries otherwise the usual suspects are: 1. The reverse electric motor fuse was blown. Reverse button stuck in the depressed position. Run/off switch in the off position. Bike not in neutral. Faulty relay, reverse actuator, solenoid, regulator module, 6.
Wire connectors in the reverse system faulty due to corroded, bent, broken, loose, retracted or missing wire pins and sockets. Reverse cables not properly adjusted. Faulty reverse lever components.
Reverse lever not in the on position. The side stand is in the down position. The reverse motor has failed and needs an overhaul.
For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $9 very cheap $73 To speak to me personally $6 very cheap Feb 07, 2018. Hi, Anonymous for this scenario you will need your service manual that has all fastener torque specs and a wiring diagram on the back pages, parts fiche, and owners manual if you can not find the best tool you ever bought for your Harley, despair not, for a mere $15 you can download another one. For more information about your issue and valuable 'FREE' downloads that you will need for viewing or printing please click on the blue links below and for more specific information or questions at no charge please feel free to contact me at xlch@mail.com. Good luck and have a wonderful day. $15 To speak to me personally absolutely free Sep 01, 2014.