I currently have a 2011 Kawasaki KLX250s dual sport. I ride pretty much exclusively at Blue Mountain.
The bike is about 300Lbs and about 20HP. I've only been riding a few years (with a few years on a dirt bike as a kid 30 years ago), so the KLX has been a good bike for me - fairly low seat height etc.
I'm now looking for something lighter, more capable and maybe a little more HP. I came across a 2010 Husky TE250 dual sport. I don't have a truck or trailer, so I like having something street legal so I can ride to/from the trails.
The guy selling the TE250 is looking at trading for a more streetable dual sport, like the KLX250s (he's looking for something more 'streetable'), although I'm not sure I could give up my KLX yet - it's grown on me. The TE250 only has 388KM on it (purchased new in 2013 from International). It's been professionally lowered 1.5' by RMR in Abbotsford - the stock seat height would be a little unmanageable for me right now, but lowered a bit should be a good fit.
He has a skid plate and hand guards, pivot pegs, plus a few other things. Not sure if it's been uncorked or not - supposed to be a power-up kit for it - O2 bypass etc.
2 However, the engine label may also list the manufacturer’s production family of engines, as shown in the example below. This is NOT the engine family name. Engine family name guide. Download PDF Guide: Download PDF Family Plate Location Guide The EPA engine family name is a 12 character number/letter designation included on the engine nameplate for all heavy duty truck engines sold in the United States. United States. (in File Maker search by the manufacturer or engine family name). Engine Family number (11 characters using both numbers and letters. DOORS USER GUIDE Engine Family Names Information (Revised December 2017) However, the engine label may also list the manufacturer’s production family of. Locating the EPA Engine Family Name and Engine Specifications The EPA engine family name is a 12 character number/letter designation included on the engine nameplate for.
That opens it up a bit. I was surprised to find that even though it's a street legal dual sport, there's no key/ignition. Not that I do this, but if I took the KLX to the corner store, I could take the key and the bike is somewhat safe. With the FE, I could never do that since anybody could just hop on it and go, like a typical dirt bike. What are people's thoughts on the TE250? From what I've read, it's a dirt bike with lights, horn and signals tacked on, and seems like a capable bike for Blue Mountain.
It's about 50Lbs lighter than the KLX and has about 34HP. I don't need 60HP in a dirt bike, and I prefer 4-stroke. Honestly, for the riding I do the 20HP in the KLX works for me, but a little more would be nice, as long as it's controllable and linear.I edited your post title to TE250 since I assume that's what you meant to say (not FE250). I have read a lot of good things about the TE250 (and it's sister bike, the TE310). You are right, it is a full on dirt bike, and in no way a dual-sport bike. You'll be fine if you keep the street miles to a bare minimum.
I'd investigate the parts situation to be sure you're not waiting weeks (or months) for the basics.Yeah, I was thinking of the new FE350S when I was writing the post - thanks for the edit. I only ride (currently) at Blue Mountain and live at 228th, so it's only a 10 minute ride each way, so very little street. The guy is selling is because it's not as street worthy as he was hoping. The bike has only 388KM on it, so hopefully it'll be a little while before a rebuild (manual says a full engine rebuild every 80 hours). What a stark contrast to the KLX, where you might do a valve clearance check every 16,000KM, change the oil (I do the oil every 1,000KM or so with the riding I do), and that's about it for probably 50,000KM.
The TE250's odometer rolls over at 40,000KM, by which time, you've probably rebuilt the engine a number of times. I've found top-end kits online, and International should sell the parts - I'll talk to them and see what the parts availability is like. I got out for a short ride on Sunday. First impressions are that it's an immensely better bike than the KLX, in almost every way. I did have a lot of issues with flaming out, though, usually at the worst times. I has a JD tuner, so I'll start there and see what it's set to and try some different settings.
When I was riding faster (which was easier to do than on the KLX), it was a great bike, but if I got slowed down in a technical spot it would very easily flame out and stall. This is where the KLX is better - it's like driving a diesel - not as fast or exciting, but it just grunts through the slow, technical stuff.
I have a TrakMaster II rear tire on the KLX, and it's fantastic. The Husky has a Pirelli Scorpion MX tire that didn't seem to grip like the TrakMaster does. The KLX also has an 'easy pull' modification on the clutch for an easier pull, but also creates a much larger friction zone, so you have more precise control over the clutch - I'm able to get it rolling on a steeper hill with little or no wheelspin, whereas the Husky just wanted to spin the crap out of the rear tire. Once the Husky was moving, I was definitely faster and the suspension was better and more controlled. I did find that there's an ECU map switch to switch from the standard full power/race map to a 'wet' conditions map that's supposed to improve the bottom end and sacrifice the top end a little, with a little softer power delivery. (yeah, I know wanting softer power delivery on a 250 4T - remember I'm coming from a 20HP KLX250 4T) Obviously, there's a lack of skill on my part, and also a lack of familiarity - I'm so familiar with the KLX and the Husky is a different beast, part of it will just be getting used to the bike.
I'd say that my skill level and the capability of the KLX are pretty close to par, but my skills are far outclassed by the Husky. Hopefully that means that the bike will help me improve.
I definitely was getting sore forearms after a short ride on the Husky, another sign of poor riding technique. I need to get some more time on the bike. The Husky has a 13/50 gearing setup (stock is 13/40), but felt like I could use dropping the front down to a 12, or the rear to a 52. I don't care about top speed, and I've got a short ride from home to the trails, so I'd rather have great trail gearing and horrible road gearing, than the other way around.
If you haven't done so already, hop over to and do some research. There's a great deal of information on that forum that should be useful to you.
Seems like that vintage TE250 can use some tuning to get it to run strong and behave well on the trail. You're also going to need to find a good source for parts, as Husqvarna no longer supports that bike. Happy trails Rick!I've been reading through the forums on CafeHusky - very good info there. That's where I found out about the ECU map switch (supposedly still available from KTM dealers.) Funny that a 2010 bike is considered 'vintage'.