Complete service repair workshop manual for the: Yamaha YFM350 Big Bear 350 This is the same manual dealerships use to repair your atv.
Thank's that was quick! They have had it to a shop once a year for maintenance, they have not found any fix for it. Not sure if it was a good shop or how hard they tryed. But they told seller to inform of the plug when selling. As long as it is no potentially 'big' problem I am calm. They said it stalls when cold if they leave it running, but cold engines can do that.
Not sure how sensitive these are. I have 2 hours in car to see it, otherwise I should have been there for a test drive already to see for my self.
Yes, it is stock tires so then it's no worry I guess, they belived it was original, the owned it for 10 years. Might it be oil fouling? Oil leaking in from valves or piston ring = engine rebuild? Will I surely see blue smoke then? Other way to see problem easy? Well, cant start to tear it a part before buying it, might not even pull plug. It just hit me that they told me of spark problem 3 times, might they know that it needs more work then harder riding and want to keep their back free.
Just got suspicious. Edit: Just saw last post: Yes 350, valve tweaking like adjusting or pull top and change seal? Edited February 4, 2014 by ChristerLun Just saw last post. Hi again, was there yesterday and looked at it. 2 owners, last one for 10 years. Engine did not feel good, smoke smelled very much burned engine oil. Dip stick smelled like exhausts.
Runned bad om idle, but ok on some rpm. Trivetrain felt good. Moss was growing on skidplate, for real!
Very black smoke, snow got black after 3 seconds, I smelled burned oil for the rest of the evening. Engineblock was leaking oil in middle, carburator was rusty (all steel items), well everything steel was rusty. Shifting gears was easy, some times. Pull starter was stuck, lights was flickering, cut wires was hanging and so on. Drivetrain felt fine anyway, must be sturdy. There was no deal They said afterwards they didnt now from time to time if it was going to start or not when they tryed. Thank you for all answers!
You could use a hotter plug in it too to help burn away the fouling. Your plug should be an NGK D8EA and the hotter plug would be a D7EA. The valves might need a tweaking too. This is the 350 model?? Hey Oxi-Black, I own a 1998 Big Bear 350 4x2 with a similar spark plug issue. I recently pulled out plug and she is BLACK. It is a NGK D8EA.
Heres some background info; I installed a snorkel on her a couple years ago and raised the carb needle one notch and it ran alright until the stock muffler rusted out completely. I upgraded to a DG RCM ll slip on exhaust and bike ran only so so. It backfired when I would punch throttle and sputtered a little when I would be creeping thru a watery mudhole. I rejetted the carb. The bike ran great and was very peppy. Exhaust no longer backfired.
After a long ride the hot motor would sometimes stall out when I would creep thru a watery hole on trails. Bike has sat in my shed for MONTHS and I recently went to drive it and it runs like crap. Its hard to start, doesnt want to stay idling, and if I drive it up an incline it stalls. It also stalls if I punch the throttle. I went to drive it up my trailer ramps and it kept stalling. 2016 nissan maxima repair manual.
I changed the spark plug for new one. I test drove it and same result. I immediately removed plug after 10 min of riding and its already getting black.
DO I need to rejet carb again? I thought I had it dialed in perfect but now it runs like crap. The stalling when I go uphill is really weird.
If u need to know the size jets I replaced the stock ones with, Ill have to find the paper I wrote it down on. I did this months ago and cant remember the Jet sizes. I plan on cleaning the carb since it was sitting for several months with no use.
I live in FL so this bike never sees severe cold weather. ANy help is appreciate bro. I think I`ll have to pull out carb to examine it.
I once had trouble with the float sticking and the carb used to get flooded and pour fuel out of overflow line. Maybe float is sticking again? Its just weird the bike runs pretty solid from low throttle to 3/4 throttle, but when I punch WOT it stalls out and when I drive bike on a steep hill it stalls out. Does this sound like the carb is being flooded with gas? I`m no carb expert but I have taken the thing apart several times since I`ve bought bike, so I`m familiar with the components. I think my next ATV will be EFI for sure. Ok new to group and new to quads.
I picked up a 88 Big Bear for next to nothing but it has issues. The entire high low revers shifter has been removed.
All I have is a bar attached to the linkage. I can shift into all three but I would like to replace or get suggestions. I have looked around but there is limited info or pictures on what I would need to buy or where it even mounts. Any pics of what where and how it works would be great.
Or direct me to correct thread. Thanks.
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